1909 #29 Jacket -- Vareuse

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1909 #29 Jacket [With Soutache] -- Vareuse. Vareuse. – One call thus a little loose fitting garment in light wool, flannelette or flannel. It is quite indicated for the  ...
1909 #29 Jacket [With Soutache] -- Vareuse Vareuse. – One call thus a little loose fitting garment in light wool, flannelette or flannel. It is quite indicated for the summer evenings and for the spring/fall. It is not lined, which makes it very easy to make. The seams are edged with a binding. It needs six patterns. Moitie du dos [Half of the back] (fig. 4). – It takes a rectangle of cloth having 17 centimeters by 14. Fold this in half, in order to not have more in hand than 9 ½ by 14 and place on the fabric in this way folded in two the pattern cut out, while observing that the side of the pattern where are these words “milieu du dos, pli de l’etoffe, droit fil” [middle of the back, fold of the fabric, on the straight thread] must be put edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. Cut around the pattern, except for the side of the fold. Unfold the fabric, you have the back. Moitie du devant [Half of the front] (fig. 5). – Is a rectangle of cloth 18 by 14, or two pieces having 9 ½ by 14. But, in the latter case, be careful to put your pieces the one on the other, wrong side against wrong side or right side against right side; without this precaution, you would have two fronts for the same side, and nothing for the other. Manche [Sleeve] (fig. 6). – It needs, for the cutting, two patterns: top and bottom. The letters LMN and D indicating how to sew the sleeve when it is cut; you will put each letter against its match. Before sewing the seam of the elbow, you gather slightly the fabric at the place indicated. The seams of the sleeves are made with back stitching, but without pulling the thread. To assemble, place the point L of the sleeve (seam of the crook of the arm) with point L of the armhole; you then gather the top of the sleeve from point L to point N to bring back the fullness to the measurement of the armhole, and you sew with a backstitch. Now a concept of sewing to learn in passing. Do not make this seam of the armhole on top, the body of the jacket facing you, but inside, that-is-to-say from the side of the sleeve. This last is thus better placed. There remains the collar (fig. 1) and the cuffs (fig. 3) the model of which you are given in fig. 1. On a rectangle of fabric 18 by 12, you will transfer the tracing and will not cut the fabric immediately. It is better to soutache before cutting. Transfer well the outer contours and design of the soutache, here is how you will baste it: carefully the tracing on the fabric, then you will follow, with a needle filled with bright silk, which is seen best, all the contours. After which, you will remove the tracing, cutting it into tiny pieces to remove it without cutting the guiding silk.

You will place then quite easily your soutache if it is a fine round soutache such as a braid, as the drawing represents, you sew it with side stitches passing underneath as much as possible. In figure 2 you see the detail of this work, which is more time consuming than difficult. If you have the double soutache, that-is-to-say with a sort of small groove in the middle, you sew it with backstitches a little elongated all the length of this small groove. In the one as in the other case, do not pull on the stitches: your work would pucker. If you make this little jacket of wool having a certain firmness, you can soutache on this single layer. But if you chose a lighter flannelette or flannel, it is necessary to place under the fabric a piece of equal size in tarlatane or stiff muslin – muslin for poultices, for example – and soutache through the two fabrics. The work finished, you will then cut the outer contours and will line the collar and cuffs with a little light silk or Scottish batiste. The collar, shawl shaped, is sewn around the neck: the letter A indicates the middle of the back of the neck, and the letter B the middle of the front. The cuff is sewn to the sleeve in this way that, then reversed, it is on the right side. Naturally the collar, sleeves and cuffs are placed only when the back and fronts of the jacket are assembled. Their union is made by the shoulder seams IJ, and the seams under the arms GH. The jacket is crossed [double-breasted]; on one side is placed a row of buttons, and the other the buttonholes; the middle of the front must pass between the two rows of buttons; the second row of buttons is on the same side as the buttonholes. If one is not quite skillful on the subject of buttonholes, there are ways to avoid the difficulty. First put a row of buttons on each side of the front and opposite each other; and then along the edge which just crossed on top, place underneath a round soutache, similar to that edging the collar. Opposite each button sew the soutache in two places, so as to form a buttonhole which will fit the button. If the laying of the soutache seems a little difficult for you – and, indeed, this is not quite the best way, because it must neither wrinkle nor pull – you could, without inconvenience, substitute the soutache with a chainstitch executed in heavy cord, but this process should as well copy and apply the image the way that we have indicated above. A different process of ornamentation: after copying the image, as mentioned, follow the guide thread with two strands of interlocking [or crossed or interlaced] silk, as if they were the padding of a scallop and then make the drawing in satin stitch.

Translation copyright Deirdre Gawne 2012. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com