cosmeceutical uses of herbs in sunscreens

In: Sunscreens Editor: Rajesh P. Rastogi

ISBN: 978-1-53613-294-6 © 2018 Nova Science Publishers, Inc.

Chapter 12

COSMECEUTICAL USES OF HERBS IN SUNSCREENS Abhijeet Mishra and Rana P. Singh Cancer Biology Laboratory, School of Life Sciences, Jawaharlal Nehru University, New Delhi, India

ABSTRACT Herbs are being used in skin care and therapeutics from centuries. Their ingredients including bioactive phytochemicals have been widely used in sunscreens, moisturizers, and anti-aging lotions. Sunscreens have enhanced photo-protection activity when they contain bioactive components including vitamins such as A, C and E, flavonoids, carotenoids, polyphenols, hydroxy and phenolic acids. Herbal formulations in sunscreens or skin care products are used to repair or hide skin imperfections such as wrinkles and dark circles, and also for soothing and cooling of the skin. Their anti-bacterial and antifungal activities help to treat acne. Some herbal constituents with strong antioxidant properties inhibit the formation of free radicals and counterbalance reactive oxygen species (ROS). Regular exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation can cause sunburns, rashes, premature aging of the skin, oxidative stress, DNA damage and cancer. In order to avoid these undesired effects, the protection from UV ray exposure and prevention from its harmful effects are desired. The chemical-based products may cause allergy and contact dermatitis, while natural or herbal products are generally non-toxic and biodegradable. Also, nanoformulation of herbal components may effectively be absorbed to layers of skin cells to sustained and prolonged effects. Herein, different types of herbs with active components that could serve as a photoprotectant against harmful UV rays are discussed.

Corresponding Author: Prof. Rana P. Singh, 104, Cancer Biology Laboratory, School of Life Sciences, Jawaharlal Nehru University, New Delhi - 110067, India; Phone: 91-11-26704503; Email: rana_singh@mail. jnu.ac.in & [email protected].

Complimentary Contributor Copy

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Abhijeet Mishra and Rana P. Singh

Keywords: UV radiation, sunscreens, herbal cosmeceuticals, skin aging

INTRODUCTION Skin is one of the most important organs of human body and has several functions including protection of the body from external injury and infection, helps to regulate the body temperature and controls fluid loss [1 - 3]. One major stress to skin is its exposure to radiations coming from the sun. Earth receives the sun radiation constantly with nearly 50% of visible light (400-800 nm), 40% as infrared radiation (1300-1700 nm), and 10% belongs to UV radiation (10-400 nm) [2]. UV radiation has four distinct regions including UV-A (320-400 nm), UV-B (280-320 nm), UV-C (100-280 nm) and vacuo UV that ranges from 10-100 nm [2]. Exposure of UV-A and B on skin surfaces are less effective, short-lived and mostly reversible. The major outcome of the exposure is sunburn or erythema and tanning or high pigmentation [4]. Chronic effects of prolonged UV exposure could trigger the early aging of the skin, suppression of immune system, damage to eyes, and even life-threatening effects such as skin cancer [4]. UV-A radiation can reach the inner layers of the epidermis and dermis readily and can initiate the early aging of the skin. Regular exposure of UV-A radiation damages the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue of skin which can lead to premature aging [5]. The exposure of UV-B radiation causes acute inflammation or sun-burn and escalation of the photo-ageing process [6]. UV-B radiation is not completely filtered out by the ozone layer and hence mostly responsible for the skin damage due to sunburn [7]. UV-B is a potent carcinogenic agent leading to the growth and development of skin cancer [4, 7]. UV-C radiation (200–280 nm) and dioxygen (100–200 nm) are filtered out by the ozone layer before reaching to the earth surface. Skin cancer is one of the most common public health problems in tropical countries. Apart from genetic factors and family history, the incidence of skin cancer is mainly caused by long and regular exposure to ultraviolet radiations [8]. The use of sunscreens are now included in everyday life such as moisturizers, creams, lotions and other preparations for skin [9]. The utmost convincing reasons to use sunscreen and anti-aging lotion are to have a fair, smooth, radiant, and healthy skin. Further, the incidence of non-melanoma skin cancer can be prevented by up to 78% by using sunscreens regularly and properly [10]. Sunscreens are divided into two major groups, specifically, the chemical absorbers and the physical blockers [11]. The high intensity of UV radiation could be absorbed by chemical absorbers, while physical blockers contain ingredients which reflect or scatter them [11]. Chemical absorber contains chemical compounds such as avobenzone, para-aminobenzoic acid, benzophenones, cinnamates, salicylates, dibenzoylmethanes, anthranilates, octyl triazone,


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2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid [12]. Physical blocker contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in bulk form or in their nanoparticles forms [13]. Sunscreen products are used on to the topical surface of the skin and their ingredients are capable of absorbing, reflecting and/or diffracting sunlight radiation, and thus decreasing the overall doses of radiations absorbed in the skin. Several sunscreens are available to help the skin to darken or tan; however, tanning powder does not give protection from UV radiation [14]. Chemical-based artificial sunscreens available in the market can be injurious to skin, and thus, it has led to a quest for natural approaches to block and reverse the UV caused damages in the skin [15]. Currently available sunscreens moderately filter UV radiation and thus, could partially prevent the cancer of the skin. Moreover, they may have several other shortcomings such as acute toxicity, irritation, redness, erythema and allergy [16]. Chemically prepared sunscreens have been reported for allergic and contact dermatitis as well as phototoxic and photo-allergic reactions [17]. Additionally, some sunscreens contain organic chemicals used for fragrances and preservatives that can cause severe skin allergic reaction such as redness, irritation, swelling, and intense itching. Acne prone skin gets more problem due to the presence of organic compounds in the sunscreen product [17]. Thus, the development of herbal-based sunscreens devoid of these shortcomings may have greater advantages.

WHY HERBAL SUNSCREENS? The aimed should be to develop herbal or herbal-based sunscreen agents which are more effective with fewer or no side effects [18]. Plants are rich in flavonoids, carotenoids, polyphenols, hydroxy acids and phenolic compounds which have strong antioxidant properties. These natural bioactive components have the ability to absorb the UV radiations and protect the skin from adverse effects [19]. They also neutralize the free radicals produced in the skin due to UV radiation exposure. The mechanism of action of the natural bioactive components is either through scavenging or chelating the harmful free radicals generated during radiation exposure. DNA damage due to UV radiation in plants induces the accumulation of UV ray absorbing secondary metabolic products such as flavonoids and other phenolic compounds in plants [20]. These flavonoids and phenolic compounds show outstanding antioxidant and photoprotective properties which can be used as a safe, cost-effective and biologically effective ingredient in sunscreen preparations [20]. Natural compounds isolated from plants such as green tea polyphenols, extract of Aloe barbadencis and aromatic compounds extracted from lichens have been considered as potential sunscreen resources [21, 22]. Further, their potent antioxidant property in combination with the UV absorbing property makes them highly effective components of sunscreen [22]. At present, modern sunscreens have broad-spectrum UV protection and


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may contain one or many UV filters. A sunscreen containing UV filter should be heat and photostable, resistant to water, nontoxic to the skin, and easy to formulate. Prevention of absorption of UV radiation is a more effective way of controlling skin cancer where naturally occurring agents are considered as less toxic for this purpose [23]. In normal human and mouse epidermis, cells are constantly replaced by proliferating cells from basal layer. Studies on laboratory animals have revealed that UV-B radiation along with damaging the DNA, is a key factor in suppressing T-cell-mediated immune responses leading to the growth of skin cancers [24]. Therefore, for UV filter to protect skin with minimum toxicity, natural extract with antioxidants from plants could play a vital role.

TARGETS OF HERBS TO PREVENT SKIN AGING Extrinsic skin aging is a process which depends on the sun exposure and pigmentation of skin. With the exposure to UV radiation, epidermis becomes acanthotic with reduction in the collagen and gradual disintegration of elastic fibers. The phenomena occurring at molecular level for photo-aging include cell signaling, mitochondrial damage, protein oxidation and shortening of telomeres etc [25]. UV radiation triggers the formation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) which decreases the activity of enzyme tyrosine phosphatase. This particular enzyme suppresses the cell surface receptor binding proteins, such as epidermal growth factor (EGF), interleukin (IL)-1, keratinocytes growth factor and tumour necrosis factor (TNF)-α. Further, UV radiation also induces nuclear factor (NF) κB and via neutrophil recruitment and release of matrix metalloproteinase which further increases the matrix degradation [26]. UV radiation affect on electron transport chain of mitochondria produces ROS that can damage mitochondrial DNA. This process leads to lower the production of ATP from mitochondria [27]. ROS also affects proteins of the epidermis and alter their normal functions. Damage of proteins due to ROS may result in loss of structural proteins and increased susceptibility to degradation [28]. Telomeres are the tandem repeat of short sequence (TTAGGG). This sequence exists in the loop. UV irradiation causes shortening of telomeres by changing in the loop configuration leading to the interaction with Werner protein, which triggers the tumor suppressor protein p53 expression and other proteins to induce apoptosis [29]. Natural aging is also known as intrinsic aging involving similar mechanisms as that of extrinsic aging [30]. Usually, hormonal changes and ROS play notable roles in chronological aging. Lower secretion of androgens and estrogens causes wrinkling, dryness, epidermal atrophy, and decrease in elasticity of collagen [31]. Therefore, development of herbal products should be aimed at targeting maximum of these alterations associated with skin aging.



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POTENTIAL OF HERBAL PRODUCTS IN PREVENTING SKIN AGING Herbal extracts such as Aloe vera leaf extract is rich in phenolic compounds and its derivatives. These compounds contain conjugated double bonds and abundance of the integral phenolic OH attributes to the UV absorption and antioxidant potential of the extract [32]. Persea americana has different types of vitamins and polyphenols. Further, these compounds are very good antioxidant in nature and protect the skin from the harmful effect of free radicals [33]. Calendula officinalis extract has antioxidant properties due to the presence of carotenoids, polyphenols, and flavonoids [34]. Daucus carota contain β-carotene and vitamin C which protect skin from early aging symptoms and wrinkles [35]. Further, polyherbal cosmetic cream containing extract of Aloe vera, Cucumis sativus and Daucus carota were formulated and evaluated for their antioxidant properties [35]. Theobroma cacao contains polyphenols which inhibit the skin degradation enzymes. Theobroma cacao pod extract has strong antioxidant agents such as carboxylic acid, fatty acid, phenolic acid, flavonoids and terpenoids. In addition, these compounds have been documented for protection of skin from harmful effect of UV rays (36). Table 1 shows the list of herbals and their application in cosmetics. Ethanolic extract of Coriandrum sativum showed protective effects against UVBinduced skin photo-aging [37]. Cucumis sativus extracts showed anti-oxidant and antimicrobial activity and validated its cosmetic significance for the treatment of acne [38]. Compounds of Allium sativum are well known for their antioxidant properties and protection against the harmful effect of UV rays [39]. Silibinin is a naturally occurring flavonoid which is isolated from Silybum marianum (milk thistle plant) that contains antioxidant activity, and modulates many changes at molecular level that occur due to xenobiotics and UV radiation to protect the skin [6, 40]. Silymarin has been proven a chemopreventive agent in animal model against UV radiation [41]. Vitis vinifera is rich in the natural polyphenolic compounds and has been used for antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-aging activities [42]. Juice of lime and its oil, either consumed orally or applied topically, are suitable for rejuvenation of any type of skin. Regular use of fresh lime helps to maintain the natural shining of skin due to abundant presence of vitamin C and flavonoids [43]. Further scope of photoprotection may involve the development of sunscreens which remain at the surface of the skin for a longer duration and include natural antioxidants that can neutralize free radicals.

SUMMARY India has a long history for the use of natural products for medicinal purposes. In the current scenario of economic and public health, the development of novel broad-spectrum



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sunscreens, with photoprotective properties is warranted. Recently, plant products are highly used for sunscreen formulations due to their distinguished antioxidant properties. Constant UV exposure to skin leads to the harmful and damaging effects including hyper pigmentation, photo-aging, sunburn, skin irritation and skin cancer. Herbal cosmeceuticals have significant properties to protect skin from harmful effects of UV radiation with no side effects. Therefore, the present commentary aimed at the scientific account of herbal extracts in sunscreens. The naturally active ingredients extracted from plants have the potent UV radiation shielding effect. We should consider for new formulation strategies of broad-spectrum sunscreen, based on naturally bioactive UV radiation filter which are successfully tested against animal model. Thus herbal sunscreens protecting the skin at protein and DNA levels will mark the development of next generation sunscreens. Table 1. Applications of herbal plants in cosmetics S. No. 1

Name of the herbal

Applications

Reference

3

Allium cepa

Antioxidant and photo-protective effect, antiaging as well as moisturizer Effective on psoriasis, scar, cutaneous horn, and reduces the skin aging Antioxidant and lightening of the skin

4

Ananas comosus

Effective for epidermal hydration agent

[45]

Beta vulgaris

Treatment of acne and psoriasis

[46] [34]

2

5 6

Aloe vera Allium sativum

[32] [39] [44]

8

Carica papaya

Prevent UV-B mediated changes at the level of antioxidants in skin tissue Slows down pain, inflammation, redness and scaling associated with psoriasis Skin lightening body lotion

9

Citrus lemon

Used as antioxidants and disinfectants

[43]

Protects against photo-damage and wrinkles

[49]

7

10

Calendula officinalis Capsicum frutescens

Coffea arabica

[47] [48]

11

Crocus sativus

Helpful in the management of melanoma

[50]

12

Coriandrum sativum

Prevents UVB-associated skin photo-aging

[37] [38]

13

15

Cucurbita pepo

Treatment of acne, potential antioxidant and antimicrobial activity Antioxidant activity and increases the skin sebum secretion Decreases oxidative and free radical stress

16

Daucus carota

Reduces the process of aging

[35]

17

Fragaria vesca

Used as potential photo-protective agent

[53]

14

Cucumis sativus Curcuma longa


[51] [52]

Cosmeceutical Uses of Herbs in Sunscreens S. No. 18

Name of the herbal

Applications

19

Malva sylvestris

Help to reduce the dark spots, increases cell renewal and anti-ag-ing property Decreases dark spots

20

Lilium candidum

303 Reference [54] [47]

Mentha spicata

Applied as coolant to the skin

[55]

21

Musa paradisiaca

Reduces irritation and inflammation of the skin

[56]

22

Decreases skin erythema

[57]

Used to dark age spots and wrinkles

[58]

24

Ocimum basilicum Petroselinum crispum Passiflora incarnata

Nourishment of skin

[59]

25

Persea americana

Treatment of wrinkles and stretch marks

[33]

Used as anti-inflammatory and anti-aging agents in several topical products Protection of skin from early ageing as well as enhancing skin tone and texture Effective against three human pathogenic dermatophytes Shows antioxidant and astringent activity

[60]

Protection of skin from harmful effect of UV rays Applied as antibacterial

[36]

Fighting against acne, tightening and healing of skin, reduction of dark circles near eyes, decreases skin aging Improves the structure and function of the skin

[42]

23

26 27 28 29 30 31

Punica granatum Psidium guajava Solanum melongena Thea sinensis Theobroma cacao Thymus vulgaris

32 Vitis vinifera 33

Zingiber officinale

[61] [62] [63]

[64]

[65]

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