The ABC's of Shortcut Sewing, Simplicity Pattern. Co., New York, 1976. Complete
Guide to Sewing, Reader's Digest Asso- ciation, Inc., New York, 1976. The.
Home Economics
width you want for the finished binding plus ~4. inch (Figure 12). You may buy bias binding, or cut strips and sew them together individually, or cut continuous bias as explained in No. 4. Place the right side of the binding to the right side of the garment, matching edges, and stitch on the seam line. On an inward or concave curve (Figure 13), stretch the binding as you stitch, stretching more at the deepest part of the inward curve. The binding will cup slightly. On an outward or convex curve (Figure 14), ease the binding strip as you stitch so the outer edge fits without drawing. You may need to pin the bias strip to the convex edge before stitching to help control ease. Turn the binding to the inside and press. It is not necessary to finish the raw edge since bias edges do not ravel. Slipstitch or stitch in the ditch to hold the binding in place.
Lenda Jo Anderson
Home Economist- Clothing
Sewing fast requires experience and know-how. As an intermediate sewer you may attempt complicated sewing projects without hesitation because of your sewing experience. However, in spite of an enthusiastic beginning, you may sometimes become discouraged because of the time it takes to complete some sewing projects. Learning how to use speed techniques can relieve this frustration. Use the speed methods explained here to help produce a quality garment with a minimum amount of time and effort. For more speed sewing tips see Alabama Cooperative Extension Service Circular HE-429, "How To Sew Fast."
Figure 14.
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Speedy Methods for Simplified Sewing
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1. EASE PLUS STITCHING
References: Burne, Marjorie Arch, and Edna Bryte Bishop, Super Sewing, J. B. Lippincott Company, Philadelphia/New York, 1974. Erwin, Mabel D., and Lila A. Kinchen, Clothing for Moderns, 5th Edition, The Macmillan Co., New York, 1976.
The ABC's of Shortcut Sewing, Simplicity Pattern Co., New York, 1976. Complete Guide to Sewing, Reader's Digest Association, Inc., New York, 1976.
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The
.6.1Alabama WCooperative Extension Service - - --
- - "EDUCATION IS OUR BUSINESS"---- --
This material was originally prepared by Vondalyn J. Hall, formerly Home Economist-Clothing, Alabama Cooperative Extension Service.
Figure 13.
I AUBURN UNIVERSITY, ALABAMA 36849
HOW TO SEW FASTER
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Figure 12.
Family Living
ALABAMA COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE
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lengthwise
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Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work in agriculture and home economics, Acts of MayB and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. J. Michael Sprott, Director, Alabama Cooperative Extension Service, Auburn University. The Alabama Cooperative Extension Service offers educational programs and materials to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, sex, age, or handicap. It is also an Equal Employment Opportunity Employer. UPS, 15M05, 6:82, HE-430
What Is It? A way to control fullness where fabric requires a little easing. It is a one-step replacement for the rows of basting stitches you usually make. In ease plus stitching, more yarns of the fabric are forced into each machine stitch than would normally be fed by the feed dog. Where Is It Used? Ease plus stitching may be used to ease the back shoulder that has fullness to a front shoulder or to fit a standard sleeve cap in an armscye. How ls It Done? Press the fabric against the back of the presser foot with the index finger of your right hand while stitching (Figure 1). Threads of the fabric will "bunch up" as the needle makes each stitch. About every 2 inches release the fabric being held down so it does not gather too much. Ease plus stitching should produce a slightly gathered effect with no tucks stitched in.
Figure l. 2. FOLDED CASING
What Is It? A casing for elastic or drawstring formed by extending the edge of the pattern to create a self finished edge . . . similar to an extended facing. Where Is It Used? A folded casing may be used at the bottom of full sleeves or at the waistline of skirts, pants, and blouses to replace the traditional waistband. How Is It Done? Omit darts at the waistline. Extend the pattern edge above the waistline seam of skirts and pants or below the hemline of sleeves and blouses. The extension should be twice the width of the finished casing plus }4. inch if you plan to finish the raw edge by turning it under (Figure 2). If you want to omit the zipper, draw a straight line from the hipline point on the pattern to the top of the extension ( Figure 3) . Finish the raw edges if necessary to prevent raveling. Turn half of the extended width to the inside. Press. Stitch the lower edge of the casing in place, leaving a small opening for inserting el;istic or drawstring. Insert elastic and overlap ends; stitch securely.
CIRCULAR HE-430
Casing with a zipper
Figure 2.
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Casing without a zipper
Figure 3 . Close the opening with handstitches. Stitch up and down through the casing and elastic at centers and sides to prevent elastic from folding over (Figure 4) .
How Is It Done? Sew the seam up to the zipper placket opening as usual. Press the seam open. Then press under the seam for the zipper placket, turning under a )~-inch seam allowance on the right side and a %-inch seam allowance on the left. A small pleat will form at the bottom of the zipper placket on the )~-inch side. Close the zipper and position it under the right side of the opening with the coil parallel to and touching the folded edge. Using the zipper foot, start at the bottom of the zipper and stitch close to the folded edge (Figure 5). Pin the left side so it laps over the zipper teeth and the row of stitching. Baste in place. Turn the zipper so the underside faces you. Stitch across the bottom of the zipper tape through all the thicknesses, stitching % inch past the fold; then pivot and stitch toward the top of the zipper about 1 inch (Figure 6) . Unzip the zipper and use the seam guide on your sewiflg machine to sew a straight line to the top of the zipper ( Figure 7). This method gives a perfect zipper every time since you can use the sewing machine seam guide to determine the width of the zipper lap.
Figure 5.
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Figure 9. 4.
CONTINUOUS BIAS
What Is It? A method used to make yards of bias in a few easy steps.
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vVhere Is It Used? Continuous bias can be used anywhere long bias strips are needed, such as belts and bias bindings. How Is It Done? Cut a square or rectangle of fabric, following lengthwise and crosswise grainlines. Mark a bias line on the wrong side of the fabric, starting at the top left corner (Figure 8). Draw lines parallel to the bias, making space between lines the width you want the finished bias strips to be. Cut on the first bias marking. With right sides together stitch straight edges A and B with a )!i-inch seam (Figure 9). Press open. With right sides together stitch straight grain edges C and D together, matching X to X'; one width of the bias will extend at both top and bottom (Figure 10). Stitch a Ji-inch seam; press seam open. Cut along marked lines for continuous bias (Figure 11). You can get about 24 yards of )~-inch bias from a yard of 36-inch fabric.
Figure 10.
Figure 11. S.
BIAS BINDING
What Is It? A quick and easy way to encase raw edges. A binding shows as a rolled enclosure at the edge of a seam.
QUICK LAPPED ZIPPER
Where Is It Used? Bias binding may be used on concave (inward) curves to finish necklines and armholes. Convex (outward) bias bindings are used to finish lapels, collars, and pockets.
What Is It? A zipper that leaves only one lap showing. It is installed by a method that needs no machine basting and wasted steps. Where Is It Used? A quick lapped zipper may be used for necklines, side plackets on dresses, skirts, and pants.
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Figure 7.
Figure 4. 3.
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Figure 6 .
Figure 8.
How Is It Done? Trim away seam allowances on edge to be bound. Cut a bias strip three times the
