NORTHERN ETHIOPIA. Once upon a time, in the mountain vastness, a
drawbridge lowered and a white stallion galloped forth from a crystal castle. On
his back ...
© Lonely Planet Publications 108
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
Northern Ethiopia Once upon a time, in the mountain vastness, a drawbridge lowered and a white stallion galloped forth from a crystal castle. On his back was an emperor dressed in gold robes living on a mountain of fire. Northward the emperor rode, past craggy peaks and terrifying chasms haunted by baboons with bleeding hearts, until he arrived at a chapel containing the words of God carved onto stone tablets by Moses. Above the chapel leered giant obelisks erected in memory of a queen known only as Sheba who loved a faraway king named Solomon. After praying for advice to the oracle of the Ark of the Covenant, the emperor sped forward over mountains where Syrian monks climbed the tails of serpents to build treasure-filled monasteries. As he rode, the King of Kings turned his head to the left, and off in the far distance he saw the glitter of a desert made of gold. The riding became harder, the wrinkles of the earth more spectacular still, but the end of the pilgrimage was in sight. Ahead of the emperor lay the new Jerusalem; the holy city of Lalibela where St George demanded a team of angels build him a church fit for a slayer of dragons. It might sound like a fanciful fairytale, but not so long ago, in the days when science was fantasy and fairytales werereality, this was how the wider world viewed northern Ethiopia. Today, of course, science is reality and fairytales are nothing but children’s fantasy, which our ever-shrinking world has cast aside. But, if you ever feel that the hectic, modern world we’re living in is getting too much, then just remember that there is one place in which dragon-slaying knights still live and where the ghosts of emperors still haunt the highlands. Its name is northern Ethiopia. It’s the home of fairytales and it will be unlike anywhere else you know. HIGHLIGHTS Immerse yourself in Christianity in its
most raw and powerful form in the mindblowing rock-hewn maze of churches in Lalibela (p156) Search for hidden treasure in the dank
gloom of ancient Aksumite tombs and ponder the mysteries of the stelae of Aksum (p131) Lace up your boots and trek through the
Aksum Tigray Simien Mountains Gonder Lake Tana
Lalibela
sublime Simien Mountains (p126), home to magnificent wildlife and unparalleled panoramas of endless Abyssinian abysses Sail your good ship past centuries-old
monasteries to the source of the Blue Nile on magical Lake Tana (p114) Recreate a feast for 30,000 in the hallowed halls of the royal castles of Gonder (p118) Climb a snake’s tail (p145), dodge a sword-welding ghost and make sure your club isn’t
turned into a lion while exploring the magnificent rock-hewn churches of Tigray (p147)
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T H E H I S T O R I C A L C I R C U I T • • A d d i s A b a b a t o t h e B l u e N i l e G o r g e 109
Climate
National Parks If northern Ethiopia was devoid of astounding historical finds, Simien Mountains National Park would truly still be on the world map. It’s home to rare endemics, like the walia ibex and Ethiopian wolf, as well as large populations of the intriguing gelada baboon. It also offers Ethiopia’s best trekking and some of Africa’s most astounding panoramas from its 4000m plateaus and peaks.
Getting There & Away Ethiopian Airlines (www.flyethiopian.com) connects Addis Ababa with Bahir Dar, Gonder, Lalibela, Aksum and Mekele. Most people who enter northern Ethiopia overland are travelling by bus from Addis Ababa, which sits conveniently at the bottom of the historical circuit. Although possible, few people access the Addis Ababa–Bahir Dar road from the western highland town of Nekemte. The only other overland option is from Sudan at the Metema crossing (p263).
Getting Around Ethiopian Airlines has flights interconnecting Bahir Dar, Gonder, Lalibela, Mekele and Aksum. Road construction is booming and freshly sealed sections of road connect Addis Ababa with Bahir Dar and Gonder (though still expect a few older potholed sections!). In the east, new sections of sealed road now all but link Adigrat, Mekele and Woldia. The old sealed road connecting Addis Ababa to Woldia is also close to completion. While fresh roads have reduced the extensive bus network’s travel times, journeys are still lengthy due to the massive distances being covered. Expect at least 10 solid days of bus journeys to complete the 2500km-long historical circuit.
The only area in which you’ll have trouble finding regular public transport is around the rock-hewn churches of Tigray. To visit the Danakil Depression, you’ll have to travel by private or rented 4WD.
THE HISTORICAL CIRCUIT The historical circuit stretches over the entire breadth of northern Ethiopia. It covers all the major historical sites and provides access to natural attractions, like the Simien Mountains and Danakil Depression. Most visitors move in a clockwise direction, travelling through Bahir Dar, Gonder and Aksum, before looping back southwards. This leaves what’s arguably the best for last – lovely Lalibela.
ADDIS ABABA TO THE BLUE NILE GORGE The road north to the Blue Nile Gorge offers some historical and natural sights to break up the long journey to Bahir Dar. Even if you don’t plan on stopping, keep an eye out for the shepherds in their delightful reed ‘raincoats’, the Amhara women in their pleated highland skirts and the men carrying their indispensable dula (wooden staffs).
Muger River Gorge The Muger River Gorge, some 50km north of Addis Ababa, is a good spot for a bit of rambling and wildlife-watching. The endemic gelada baboons are often seen here, as are cacophonous collections of colourful birds. Access is from the village of Durba, which sits 17km west of Chancho and the Addis Ababa–Bahir Dar road. There is a couple of daily share-taxis linking Durba and Chancho (Birr7, 45 to 60 minutes), though more run on Saturday. To continue north or south from Chancho, you can hop on the buses running between Addis Ababa and Bahir Dar.
Debre Libanos Lying 104km north of Addis Ababa is one of Ethiopia’s most holy sites. The monastery of Debre Libanos (admission Birr50, personal video cameras Birr50) was founded in the 13th century by a priest credited not only with the spread of Christianity throughout the highlands, but also with the restoration of the Solomonic
NORTHERN ETHIOPIA
The central and northern highlands are fairly mild with average daytime temperatures of 18°C. The bulk of the rain falls between May and September, with July and August being the wettest. The region of Tigray and parts of northeastern Amharaland are drier, only receiving significant rain in July and August. The Danakil Depression, whose floor scrapes to 116m below sea level in places, regularly surpasses 45°C.
