/
III
YARN DYEING
Printing of Jute Fabric with Natural Hvdrolvsable Tannins dve from Terminalia Chebula
A
ncient Indians and Egyptians first employed printing, that is, localised colouring as a method of ornamentation and to satisfy the need for artistic expressions. This basic desire for design and colour has kept the printing industry growing for centuries. Among all the processes that are used to decorate textile fabrics, printing is the most The natural dye source important10nes. Terminalia Chebula used to In India, dyeing dye the fabric can also be and printing of employed to print the fabric by textiles with vegetable dyes has using different printing paste been in practice for formulations. thousand of years2-5. Documents of Mogul periods bear a testimony to the utilisation of these dyes; Rajasthan and Kutch still possess a rich tradition in the use of vegetable dyes for textile dyeing and printing. HO~OH Today, the main problems encountered in the use of vegetable ~ dyes are availability and fastness property. Most of the dyes are o available at particular season; also, the actual colouring matter obtained from the source is very less in quantity. Hence, considering the easy availability of Terminalia Chebula trees throughout the year in India, it has been selected as the source of dye. Chebulic myrobalan is a moderate or large deciduous tree with a dark brown bark exfoliating in woody scales. It is also known
as Haritaki in Sanskrit and Harda in Hindi and is of a family combretaceae. The fruit is the most useful part of the tree since it is rich in tannin. Depending upon the geographical source, they vary in tannin content. Since time immemorial, this myrobalan has been used as a medicine. The tannins of myrobalan are of pyrogallol type (hydrolysable tannins) which, on hydrolysis, yield chebulic acid and d-galloyl glucose. Chebulagic, chebulinic, ellagic and gallic acids are the other contents of myrobalan6• The chemical structures of these compounds are given in Fig 1. With alum, powdered rind of the fruit yields a traditional dye-range of fast yellow. With iron sulphate, it is used in the production of various shades of black; production can be done with effective and controlled use of mordant. Keeping the above points in mind, it was thought worthwhile to
-;/ I 0
OH
eOOH
eOOH eOOH
))" HOyOH
OH
YARN DYEING
1_
further extend the use of Terminalia Chebula dye for printing of jute fabric.
Table 1 : Printing paste formulation Formulation
Materials and experimental methods
Metallic
salt
Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation
Conventional 3% H202 bleached plain weave, jute fabric of decorative variety having 67 endsjdm and 67 picksjdm, and fabric area density 225 gjm2 obtained from local textile market Baroda, has been used in the present work.
1 2 1 2 1 2
Formulation
-
20
Ferrous sulphate
-
Ferrous sulphate
20
Stannous chloride
-
Stannous chloride
20
2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
68 60 68 60 68 60
salts on colour characteristics
Metallic
1
salt
30 18 30 18 30 18
of printed jute fabric
L*
a*
b*
16.73 21.35 2.27
74.37 64.96 70.90
1.43 0.80 0.91
24.17 14.21 21.21
5.69 18.42 1.83
67.05 65.99 68.11
K/S
CuS04 SnCI2
Formulation
2
CuSO. FeSO. SnCI2
Table 3 : Effect of metallic salts on fastness Formulation
. Formulation
1
CuSO. FeSO. SnCI2
Formulation
2
CuSO. FeSO. SnCI2
properties
2.63 5.47
Light
of printed jute fabric
Washing
Rubbing Dry
Wet
4-5 4 4-5
4-5 4-5 4-5
4 4 4-5
4-5 4-5 4-5
4-5 4-5 4-5
4 4 4
Shade
Staining
change
to cotton
5 5 6-7
4-5 4-5 4-5
4 4-5 5
4-5 4-5 4-5
lations were prepared to print jute fabric: • Printing Paste Formulation 1 : Bleached jute fabric was first impregnated with 20% dye solution and padded on laboratory two bowl padding mangle using 4-dip-4-nip padding technique (with 65% padding expression) at room temperature. Samples were then dried in laboratory oven at 70°C temperature. Then the sample was printed with the paste that contained metallic salt with other ingredients as mentioned in Table 1. • Printing Paste Formulation 2 : In this case, the bleached jute fabric was printed with the printing paste
19.99 21.17 19.02
1.15
Fastness to
Metallic salt
The printing paste was prepared by using thickener with and without different mordants. The details of the essential ingredients of printing paste are given in Table 1.
(ml)
values
Laboratory reagents (LR) grade of chemicals used for the research were copper sulphate (CuS04), ferrous sulphate (FeS04) and stannous chloride (SnCI2) as mordants in the present work. All the chemicals have been obtained from a local supplier.
Printing paste
Hotwater
Gum arabica
Copper sulphate
FeSO.
Block printing method was employed for printing. Various wooden blocks were used to print the jute fabric.
Thickener
(gpl)
Copper sulphate
Table 2 : Effect of metallic
Formulation
Gum Arabica (10 % paste) was used as thickener.
Mordent
(ml) Formulation
For the present investigation, commercial Terminalia chebula (CI Natural brown 6) fruit powder purchased from local market was used. 20 gm of Terminalia chebula powder was pasted with 20 ml of hot water and added in the respective printing paste.
Dye (gpl)
containing the colouring matter as well as metallic salt.
Printing of fabric was done using finely engraved wooden blocks.
Fixation/Development For development of the colour of printed and ground portion, the samples were steamed in laboratory steamer at 102°C and 25 Ibs pressure for 15 min.
Soaping/After treatment Finally, the samples were given coldwater rinse, soaped with non-ionic detergent at 60°C for 15 min; again
~ YARN DYEING
washed with tap water, dried and ironed in a slightly moist condition.
Evaluation of printed samples
The samples were assessed for L* a* b* colour coordinates and K/S values (illuminant 065/100 observer) on Spectra Scan 5100 (RT) spectrophotometer (Premier Colorscan instrument).
Washfastness of the samples inted under the optimised conditions, 'Was tested according to ISO 105-C03 method. The samples were washed in standard soap solution at 60°C for 30 min, keeping liquor to material ratio as 1:50. Dry and wet rubbing fastness of the samples was tested according to ISO 105-X12 method. Light fastness was tested according to ISO 105-802 method. The dyeings were exposed to xenon arc lamp for 24 hr at standard testing conditions?
The present investigation was carried out to explore the usefulness of widely available material, Terminalia Chebula. In case of natural dye to obtain a wide range of colours on fabric, various metallic salts can be used. Thus, experiments were conducted to standardise the recipe for application of metallic salt for printing of jute by using Terminalia Chebula (CI Natural brown 6) dye. The effect of metallic salts on colour development and their methods of application were studied.
Effect of metallic colour strength
salts on
When jute fabric was printed with formulation 1, it has been observed that the different metallic salt gave different colour prints on light brown colour background (i.e. copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and stannous chloride gave brown, gray and pale brown colour
prints). When the jute sample was printed with formulation 2, it has been observed that the formulation gave dark brown colour print on white background when copper sulphate was used in printing paste with Terminalia Chebula dye. Ferrous sulphate, when used with the dye, produced a shade of black colour print was produced on jute fabric. In case of stannous chloride, cream colour print was observed. Fig 2 represents the various colours and shades of prints which can be produced on jute fabric with Terminalia Chebula with two different formulations. It has been observed from the printed samples that out of two methods used for the printing, the second formulation gives the best results in terms of depth of prints. Table 1 represents the K/S values and colour coordinates of different samples. The K/S values are found to be maximum for sample printed with the paste that contains ferrous sulphate followed by copper sulphate and stannous chloride printed samples
(formulation 1). Furthermore, it can also be seen that the highest K/S values are obtained with formulation 1 and the least for formulation 2. Table 2 also shows the colour characteristics of printed samples with formulation 1 and formulation 2 using different metallic salts. The printed samples show significant tonal variation on mordanting as is evident from the values of colour coordinates. Here, L* represents lightness/ darkness; a*, the red/green values; and b*, the yellow/ blue value. Very slight variation is observed in the a* and b* values of samples printed with formulation 1 and 2. However, the samples printed with ferrous sulphate are duller in tone.
Colour fastness of the samples Table 3 shows that the fastness properties of the sample printed with formulation 1, with copper sulphate, ferrous sulphate and stannous chloride are better than those of the samples
YARN DYEING ~
printed with formulation 2. On comparing the fastness ratings of samples printed by the three metallic salts, stannous chloride always exhibits better fastness properties than the other two salts. From Table 2, it can also be seen that all samples printed either with formulation 1 or 2, exhibit adequate all-round good to very good fastness properties.
print the fabric by using different printing paste formulations. In this way, by utilising some of the natural material, which is cheap and easily available, Terminalia chebula as an important dyeing and printing material for jute fabric. Thus the ecological and toxicological problems caused by synthetic dyes can be resolved to some extent.
4
B H Patel and B J Agarwal, Asian Textile
Journal, 11 (April, 2002) 4 5
B H Patel, B J Agrawal and H M Patel, Colourage (Jan, 2003), 21
6
C K Kokate, A P Purohit and S B Gokhale, Pharmacognosy,
12th
Edition,
Nirali
Prakashane, Pune, (1990), 151 7 Anon,
Methods
fastness
of
The Society
of
test
textiles
for
colour
and
leather,
of Dyers and Colourists
(1990). B C Mohanty,
National
Seminar
on
Mr
Natural Dyes, Jaipur, NHDC (1989)
It can be concluded from the present investigation that the natural dye source Terminalia Chebula used to dye the fabric can also be employed to
2
M L Gulrajani,
Colourage,
XLVI
(July,
Maharaja
1999), 29 3
B H Patel and B J Agarwal, Textiles in India, XLIII
B H Patel
Department
Man-Made
is a lecturer
of Textile Sayajirao
in
the
Chemistry;
The
University
of
Baroda,
Vadodara - 390 001, Gujarat.
E-mail:
[email protected]
(Nov.2000), 11
Rowing in Thermo°Cool During the Rowing World Cup in Lucerne and the World Rowing Championships in Poznan, New Wave Sportswear in Germany - official FISA, Partner and manufacturer of functional shirts - will provide to all athletes Thermo°Cool garments for enhanced performance and thermoregulation. High endurance sports in hot and humid conditions are detrimental to both performance and athletes themselves. This has led in the market to an increasing interest in choosing Thermo°Cool garments, specifically designed to provide multifunctionality : evaporative cooling and thermobuffering, reducing the exposure impact with external temperatures, and protecting the user from temperature changes. Silvia Toledo of Advansa commented, 'We are really excited that Thermo°Cool will be used in the collection for the events in Lucerne and in Poznan
and hope it will contribute to the athlete's success. We are convinced that the garments will offer them the maximum performance and best comfort.' Thermo°Cool is the result of years of study on human thermoregulation from the privileged platform of profiled cross section products. It consists of a unique blend of fibres with a hollow core along with fibres with a channelled surface providing a dual functionality: When the athlete is hot and perspiring, the fabric provides evaporative cooling, keeping the user cool and comfortable. When the athlete is cold and shivering, the fabric reduces the exposure impact with external temperatures, keeping the user warm and thermo regulated. For customers concerned about the environment, Thermo°Cool is also available in an ECO version that uses a polymer made from renewable resources, such as corn, instead of traditional petrochemical derivates.
BASF to cut down polystyrene capacity in Europe BASF has closed down one polystyrene
the two BASF insulation
plant qt its Ludwig-
shafen (Germany) site due to decreasing demand for the product. The plant, which has been out of operation
since mid-April,
been dismantled and the personnel working been transferred
has
capacity
in Europe by about 15%
Polystyrene
and 'Neopor'.
been supplied
to restructure
all options
our Styrenics
In doing so, we are
in order to strengthen
the business on
a sustainable basis. This also includes reducing production
continues to be produced but it will serve primarily
intensively
business and increase its profitability. investigating
from 80,000 tpa to 540,000 tpa. Ludwigshafen,
C
'Styrodur'
of European companies who had previously 'We are working
to other positions within the company.
for the standard plastic polystyrene
products
Belgium plant now caters to the supply needs
from Ludwigshafen.
at the plant have
The plant closure has reduced BASF's production
BASF's Antwerp,
capacities. We nevertheless
by BASF in
for the manufacture
of
explained
still intend to sell this business;
Dr Joachim Streu, head of BASF's Styrenics business.
