sustainable concepts and eco-friendly technologies in ...

INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON DESIGN AND LIGHT INDUSTRY TECHNOLOGIES 19 – 20 November 2014, Budapest, Hungary Óbuda University

SUSTAINABLE CONCEPTS AND ECO-FRIENDLY TECHNOLOGIES IN THE DENIM INDUSTRY Edit Csanák Óbuda University, Hungary Abstract Denim is one of the most polluting industries on the fashion market. Nowadays we try to invent more environmentally friendly manufacturing technologies than the traditional are. Despite the ecological facts, it still keeps to be a rapidly growing part of the fashion market. Behind the giant denim industry big problem are enormous quantities of second hand trash, unsalable stock and denim waste, which has to be processed again anyway. On the other hand: repurposing of denim waste into fashionable items is only in some cases part of the sustainability process. There are many opportunities offered to enthusiasts of denim today; advanced and organic denim, less polluting fabric dyeing and washing processes, zero water technologies, oxygen and ozone washes, recycling processes, Eco-denim projects, and so on. Most of them aren’t environmentally friendly at all, even they are called so… This report focuses onto the latest denim finishing technologies, comparing their impact on environment regarding to the classic ones. It introduces some designer brands that are regarding these new technologies and advanced opportunities of its recycling. Also, it reflects to possibilities of introducing them in the domestic market. Keywords: denim, sustainability, Eco-denim, advanced denim technologies 1. INTRODUCTION: ACTORS OF THE BLUE SUPPLY CHAIN Denim is a dynamic, featuring field of fashion where the achievements of the science and new features of lifestyle are assumed in sew styles. To understand the modern phenomenon of denim topic has to be accessed from different aspects. From an artistic point of view emphasis is on the product. “Features of denim design” that make the core of jeans anatomy allow endless opportunities for the designers. [1] In this context is important to mention classical denim technologies that are still used and which till now make the essence of the traditional denim craft. Phenomenon of denim is a complex one, with multifaceted local and global interests behind the scene, where the economic aspect makes the essence of the topic. This field of fashion is rapidly growing business, thus continuous monitoring of the market is a must for all the professionals. Denim is one of the biggest employers on the world; its giving work to lots of people: stakeholders in the textile, garment and fashion industry, including small and medium enterprises and large companies, designers and creative personnel of leading global fashion houses and emerging brands, actors of the retail sector (buying/selling, distribution, promotion, etc.), as well there are huge interests of machinery makers, workers and technologists of the weaving mills, and so on… There is an endless list of employees and employers interested in a supply chain of the blue industry.

1


That’s why is important to reflect on environmental aspects of this topic, by reflecting onto some Eco-design and denim recycling projects. We can see that world of denim became ever more socially responsible than was in the past. If drawing attention to new achievements of the science, that make this field fresh and exciting, there’s featuring a future of denim above more sustainable aware than it was in its heroic history. World of denim as a big melt-in-pot allows to diverse, featuring tendencies to be integrated into. Social media sharing support birth of new fashion and lifestyle trends, and new social and Eco-aware projects, while achievements of the technology provide continuous inspiration for functional design. 2. MARKET SURVEY - DENIM INDUSTRY Fashion changes, but denim are still here. It is a popular field of fashion design and despite the periodical crisis’s of this field of fashion. Consumers have an undying love of jeans. About 8 from 10 young people wears denim in its all shapes and bears. If you were to ask young what will they take with them in a backpack if being transported to the moon, then there would be a pair of jeans surely among the belongings...

Figure 1. Popular publications about denim

This field of fashion has a huge publicity; there are dozens of articles, style forecasts, books and trend publications introduced on fabric exhibitions and Tradeshows. Publicity of denim is continuous; it’s been over a decade since denim has been considered a premium product, but the blue revolution is still on… [4] According to the public data of popular site denims and jeans [2] the global producing of denim fabric woven in over 300 denim mills worldwide, was 9 billion meters of the year 2012, and till 2020 the capacity is estimated to be the same. The world market of denim for the year 2012 was valued about $75 billion!

2


2.1 Facts and figures about global denim production at the end of year 2014

In East and West Europe the number of denim manufacturers is not a significant 1, but Turkey has an advanced denim fabric weaving and product manufacturing industry in the present day. Based upon the search result of a flagship online marketplace, there are around 100 denim brands present on the Turkish denim market. 2 That’s why European denim brands manufacture their products in most cases in Turkey or in North Africa, but mostly in the Far East 3. Based upon the search result of the same a flagship online marketplaces the number of denim suppliers only in the Far East (at the end of 2014 year) is around half million!

350000

300000

China (Mainland) over

250000

Vietnam over

200000

Pakistan about India over

150000

Bangadesh about 100000

Japan about 50000

Thailand about 0

Diagram 1: Estimated number of denim manufacturers on the Far East based upon the search result of a flagship online marketplaces

3. CLASSICAL DENIM TECHNOLOGIES: BACKGROUND AND DISADVANTAGES Denim washing is a technology that is used to soften the raw material and to give it used look. It is done to produce effects like color fading, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling or softenedhand feel, etc., as well to stabilize dimensions of the product because the shrinkage of the fabric. Since denim constitutes the largest portion of the garments that are washed, the term 'wash' has come to mean the finishing of denim garments.

1

Netherland (G-star, Kuyichi, Mexx, Scotch and Soda, Denham, etc.), Sweeden (Acne, Nudie Jeans, Cheap Monday) and Germany (Mustang, One Green Elephant, Timezone, etc.) has their woven suppliers and production in the Far East. There is still a domestic production in Portugal (Salsa) and Italy. The top brands are: Armani Jeans, Sweet Jeans, Energie, Fornarina, Freesoul, Gas, Killah, Kocca, Meltin’ pot, Miss Sixty, Replay and Diesel. Hungary had giant denim industry in the past, but the current situation is not substantial. There are few denim brands (such as Devergo or Retro) which manufacture their products abroad. Only a few manufacturers of denim goods left in the country, as well the number of competent laundries in the country is relatively small; there is a relevant technology left only in Szekesfehervar, Debrecen, Budapest and Kiskunhalas. Serbia has advanced denim industry in Novi Pazar (South Serbia, Raška region). 2 The top Turkish brands are: Colin, Cross Jeanswear Co., LTB, Mavi, River Island and Lc Waikiki. As well as there are over 3000 suppliers in the country. It means jointly around 50.000 products each season. There are around 300 woven suppliers, the largest and best known are: Orta Anadolu, Kipas Denim, Bossa. 3 In China, Vietnam, Bangladesh and Pakistan. The estimated number of Chinese suppliers is over

3


The first one was stone wash, invented in the late 60-s by Japanese brand Edwin® and Marithé and Francois Girbaud® in France – almost at the same time. Until today we don’t know who was who invented it first, but it until the present day there have been developed few more. There are different processes which can be used on a various way and may result various effects for special products. By setting of process parameters we can change the final effect of each process. Here are the basic ones: 



  

Stone Washing: a most common method used to give the denim 'old-look', to abrade the surface of the fabric and to obtain a softer touch. The main component of the method is the pumice stone4. Enzyme Washing: a common bio-catalytic method where the hydrolytic effect of enzymes causes the loss of surface fiber by improving smoothness of surface and the softness of the fabric. Bleach Washing (as well called acid wash or bleaching) is a cheap and quick way of finishing which is done by using a bleaching agent like sodium hypochlorite, or similar acid. Ice or Snow Washing is a method achieved by dry tumbling with pumice stones soaked with bleaching agents. It produces a 'snow-like' pattern effect on denim. Sandblasting is an abrading method done with sand, for obtaining a localized abrasion effect.5

3.1 Environmental pollution facts and disadvantages of classical denim washing methods

Let’s be honest: denim is an awfully dirty industry! To make jeans is like to make sausages. That’s why it’s usually done in undeveloped countries where the environmental regulations are not demarcated clearly. Despite the ecological facts denim still keeps to be growing part of the fashion market. Especially important is to face with the aspect that denim washing is one of the most environment polluting technologies. Facts were considered around 2010.

Figure 3. Environment pollution done by using of classic denim finishing

4

Upon the degree of the water, quantity of the stone and duration of the washing process, different effects/shades of denim can be obtained. Rocks for the best quality pumice stones are dropped from Aegean Sea (costs of Turkey and Greece), as well as is going on in Tenerife, Iceland and in Côte d'Azur, as well as in the Philippines, Indonesia, China, Japan, Mexico, the USA and Ecuador. 5

There are over more methods; these were the most common used. [1]

4


Even the commonly used technologies are more environmentally friendly nowadays, if modern less polluting chemicals are used – as together altogether with relevant sewage plants –, disadvantages like high energy and water consumption, multi part production process and lots of waste support efforts of denim professionals to invent new, more environment friendly ones. However; higher demands cause higher prices of the products, what is closely related to well-known terrible work conditions of the denim industry workers around the world. There is a clear relation between the phenomenon of fast fashion and cheap clothing, and low product prices. Professionals over the world fight for maintaining of the ethical rules and for the moral values, maintaining principles of quality contra quantity. [3] 4. SUSTAINABILITY, RECYCLING AND ECO DESIGN: FACTS AND TENDENCIES Saving a planet and sustainable fashion became a Megatrend. As we’ve seen the giant denim industry produces enormous quantities of second hand trash, waste and unsalable stock that causes huge environment pollution in itself. Repurposing of enormous quantities of textile produced each season became a great challenge for fashion professionals.

Figure 4. “Deconstruction & Reconstruction” – Edit Csanák: Vanguard Jeans Collection [2009]

“Deconstruction & Reconstruction” started to be an outstanding trend at the late 2000’s, however the roots of eco-design and recycling are in the late 90-s. [3] Should be noted that recycling of the trash into “so called fashionable” items, that are lacking proposal and tangibly useful end product, cannot be considered sustainable at all. That problem describes most of the recycling projects. Eco-denim aren’t environmentally friendly at all, if it is just a waste of time and energy, even it is are called so…

Figure 5. Cutting edge products of different denim recycling projects

5. ECO-FRIENDLY TECHNOLOGIES IN THE DENIM INDUSTRY Making jeans is over more complex process than the average consumer thinks; it requires special equipment and technology, complex skills mixed with a high degree of creativity, and special knowledge. This is a very creative field of design that attracts lots of designers each season. Undying desire of the designers and the consumers supported by the multiplied global interest of denim brands, manufacturers and their give renewed meaning to the work each new season. 5


We strive to invent more environmentally aware technologies than the traditional. The first initiative was introduced by the Levi Strauss year 2011, when the company began using Water