Bangkok is the best place to shop for onward .... TONY WHEELER,
COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET. PAGE. 2 ... around or check the Lonely
Planet Thorn-.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
PAGE
54
ON THE ROAD
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
Vietnam p56
Laos p278
Northern Thailand p364
Cambodia p178
SURVIVAL 493 GUIDE PAGE
Directory A–Z ................. Transport ........................ Health .............................. Language ........................ Index ................................ Map Legend ....................
494 504 511 518 533 543
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
To enter countries, your must be valid for at six months from your d of entry, even if you’re only staying for a few days. You may be refused entry if your passport doesn’t have enough blank pages available for a visa. When checking into hotels in Vietnam, staՖ will request a copy of your
Transport This chapter gives an overview of the transport options for getting to the Mekong region, and getting around once there. For more speciÀ Àc information about getting to (and around) each country, see the relevant sections in each chapter. For general details of the region’s border crossings, see p33.
ETTING THERE WAY the
c information on airports and airlines operating to (and around) each country in the Mekong region, see the Air sections of
The major Asian gateways for ights are Bangkok, Hong Kong and Singapore. Bangkok is the best place to shop for onward tickets and tickets around the region. To research and buy a ticket on the internet, try
(www.cheap No-frills website with a number of destina(www.kayak.com) Reliable fare comparison (www.lone Use the T Planner service to
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Nick Ray Greg Bloom, Austin Bush, Iain Stewart, Richard Waters
“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PLAN YOUR TRIP
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
2 6 18 20 23 27 33 40 49 52
welcome to the
Mekong Region
A River Runs Through It
Old Asia, New Asia
One of the world’s great rivers, the Mekong winds its way down from the foothills of Tibet to the South China Sea, encompassing some of the most diverse backdrops in Asia. Its dramatic journey southwards takes in remote national parks and immense waterfalls in Laos, traditional towns and 21st-century cities in Thailand, freshwater dolphins and forgotten temples in Cambodia and a patchwork of emerald greens in Vietnam’s Mekong Delta.
Experience old Asia and new Asia jostling for space. One minute it’s Bangkok, riding the Skytrain to a state-of-the-art shopping mall, the next it’s an elephant careering through the jungle in Cambodia. In the cities, the pace of life runs at a dizzying speed, matched only by the endless rush of motorbikes and call of commerce. In the countryside, life seems timeless, the rural rhythms the same as they have been for centuries, with pyjama-clad peasants tending the Àelds and monks wandering the streets in search of alms.
20
TOP
COUNTRY & CITY • The original • Comprehensive • Adventurous
REGIONAL • Cultural • Day trips & itineraries • In-depth
ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
Welcome to the Mekong Region ............. 20 Top Experiences ....... Need to Know ................. If You Like ........................ Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Visas & Borders .............. Outdoor Adventures ...... Travel With Children....... Countries at a Glance ....
Get the right guides for your trip
EXPERIENCES 01a-welcome-to-vcl3.indd 2
9/11/2011 8:40:35 AM
33
Visas & Borders My Top Three Border-Crossing Experiences Nick Ray I’ve been crossing the borders in this region for 15 years. Here are some of the more memorable moments: Cambodia–Laos (2001) The border had just opened, although even the government wasn’t aware of this. Our boat got stuck on a sandbar, we reached the border after dark and the Lao immigration team were tough negotiators. Cambodia–Thailand (1995) The land borders were ocially closed, but rumour had it that travellers were making it out via Koh Kong. I ended up in Thailand via speedboat and received a tongue-lashing from Immigration in Bangkok. Laos–Vietnam (2008) Planning to ride a
During the bad old days of communism and the Cold War, there were pretty much no land borders open to foreigners in the Mekong region. Times have changed and there are now more than 20 border crossings connecting the neighbouring countries of the region. For a quick visual reference, see the border crossings map (p35). In this book we give detailed instructions for every crossing open to foreigners. Before making a long-distance trip, be aware of border closing times, visa regulations and any transport scams by referring to the relevant country’s Getting There & Away sections and the speciÀc entries on border towns located in boxed texts in each chapter. Border details change regularly, so ask around or check the Lonely Planet Thorntree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree). Visas are available at some borders but not at others. As a general rule of thumb, visas il bl t th l d b d fC b
Temples of Angkor One of the world’s most magniÀcent sights, the temples of Angkor (p208) are so much better than the superlatives. Choose from Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building; Bayon, one of the world’s weirdest; or Ta Prohm, where nature runs amok. Siem Reap is the base to explore the world’s grandest collection of temples and is a buzzing destination with a superb selection of restaurants and bars. Beyond the temples lie Áoating villages on the Tonlé Sap Lake, adrenalin activities such as quad biking and microlighting, and cultured pursuits such as cooking classes and birdwatching.
1
01c-top-experiences-vcl3.indd 6
SHOESTRING • Big trips, small budgets • Multicountry
9/11/2011 8:46:11 AM
ENCOUNTER • Pocket-sized • Easy-to-use • Highlights
PHRASEBOOK
Looking for other travel resources? 06-visas-and-borders-vcl3.indd 33
15/11/2011 9:55:21 AM
UNDERSTAND 447 THE MEKONG REGION PAGE
The Mekong Region Today ............................. 448 Mekong Region History ........................... 451 Mekong Region Culture ........................... 477
GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see population per sq mile Camdodia
Laos
Vietnam
≈ 27 people
The Mekong Region Today A Remarkable Turnaround
Mekong Region Culture The Mekong region is not known as Indochina for nothing. Geographically it is the land in between India and China, and culturally it has absorbed inÁuences from both of these mighty civilisations. This is where two of the world’s greatest cultures collide. China has shaped the destiny of Vietnam and Yúnnán and continues to cast a shadow over the Mekong region. India exported its great religions, language, culture and sculpture to Cambodia, Laos and Thailand. The border be tween Vietnam and Cambodia is as signiÀcant a sociocultural border as the Himalaya range is a formidable physical barrier between the great rivals of China and India. It is the divide between Sino-Asia to the east nd Indo-Asia to the west. Cambodia was the cultural staging post for the Indianisation of the Mekon region. Indian traders brought Hinduism and Buddhism round the 2nd century and with it came the religious languages of
Rewind just a generation and Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam were paria states, boycotted by much of the Western world. Scarred by decades of war and instability, the region was considered by many Western ex erts to be a basket case. How times change. Despite the region’s communist history, its leaders proved themselves to be open to Western economic models as they balanced Eastern communism with Western ca italism. Touchdown today and the bad old days seem but a footnote in histor . Like the river that runs through it, the Mekong region is well and truly going laces.
LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters
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VIETNAM . . . . . . . 56 HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 AROUND HANOI . . . . . . 76 Perfume Pagoda . . . . . .76 Handicraft Villages . . . . 77 Ninh Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Around Ninh Binh. . . . . 77 Cuc Phuong National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 NORTHERN VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Halong Bay . . . . . . . . . .79 Halong City . . . . . . . . . .79 Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . 80 Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . .85 Ba Be National Park . .87 Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . .88 Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . .94 CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . 95 Hué . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Around Hué . . . . . . . . .103 Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Around Danang. . . . . . 107 Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Around Hoi An . . . . . . 114 SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . 115 Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . 116 Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Con Dao Islands . . . . . 127 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . . 129
Dalat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Around Dalat . . . . . . . . 133
Udong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON). . . . . . . . . . . 135
AROUND SIEM REAP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Floating Villages . . . . .207
AROUND HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . . . . . 149 Cu Chi. . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Tay Ninh . . . . . . . . . . . .150 Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . .150 MEKONG DELTA . . . . . 150 My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . .150 Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Vinh Long. . . . . . . . . . . 151 Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Phu Quoc Island . . . . . 155 UNDERSTAND VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Vietnam Today . . . . . .160 History . . . . . . . . . . . . .160 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . .162 Environment . . . . . . . .164 SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . 165 Directory A–Z . . . . . . .165 Getting There & Away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Getting Around . . . . . . 174
CAMBODIA . . . . . 178 PHNOM PENH. . . . . . . 182 AROUND PHNOM PENH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Tonlé Bati . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Sanctuary . . . 197 Phnom Chisor . . . . . . . 197
SIEM REAP . . . . . . . . . 198
TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . . .208 Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . 208 Angkor Thom . . . . . . 209 Around Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 Further Afield . . . . . . .216 NORTHWESTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . . 218 Kompong Chhnang Province . . . . . . . . . . . .218 Pursat Province . . . . .218 Battambang Province . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Banteay Meanchey Province . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Oddar Meanchey Province . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Preah Vihear Province . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Kompong Thom Province . . . . . . . . . . . 230 EASTERN CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . . 232 Kompong Cham Province . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Kratie Province . . . . . 234 Stung Treng Province . . . . . . . . . . . .237 Ratanakiri Province 238 Mondulkiri Province . . . . . . . . . . . 242 SOUTH COAST . . . . . . 244 Koh Kong Province. . 244 Sihanoukville. . . . . . . 249
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
On the Road Around Sihanoukville. . . . . . . 255 Kampot Province & Kep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 UNDERSTAND CAMBODIA . . . . . . . . . 263 Cambodia Today . . . . 263 History . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Environment . . . . . . . 268 SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . 269 Directory A–Z . . . . . . 269 Getting There & Away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276 Getting Around . . . . . .276
LAOS
278
VIENTIANE . . . . . . . . . 282 AROUND VIENTIANE . . . . . . . . .294 Phu Khao Khuay National Protected Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Vang Vieng. . . . . . . . . 294 NORTHERN LAOS . . .298 Luang Prabang . . . . . 298 Around Luang Prabang . . . . . . . . . . . .310 Luang Prabang Province . . . . . . . . . . . .310 Xieng Khuang Province . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Huah Phan Province . . . . . . . . . . . .318 Oudomxay Province 320 Luang Nam Tha Province . . . . . . . . . . . 322 Bokeo Province . . . . . 326 SOUTHERN LAOS. . . . 329
Bolikhamsai & Khammuan Provinces . . . . . . . . . . 329 Savannakhet Province . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Champasak Province . . . . . . . . . . . 338 UNDERSTAND LAOS 351 Laos Today. . . . . . . . . .351 History . . . . . . . . . . . . 352 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Environment . . . . . . . 355 SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . . 357 Directory A–Z . . . . . . .357 Getting There & Away . . . . . . . . . . . 362 Getting Around . . . . . 363
NORTHERN THAILAND . . . . . 364 BANGKOK . . . . . . . . . .368 NORTHERN THAILAND . . . . . . . . . . 389 Chiang Mai . . . . . . . . 389 Around Chiang Mai . .397 Lampang . . . . . . . . . . 400 Pai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .401 Sukhothai . . . . . . . . . 404 Around Sukhothai . . 407 Chiang Rai . . . . . . . . . 407 Golden Triangle. . . . . .410 Nan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .415 Around Nan . . . . . . . . . 417 NORTHEAST THAILAND . . . . . . . . . . 418 Nakhon Ratchasima (Khorat) . . . . . . . . . . . .419 Around Nakhon Ratchasima . . . . . . . . 420
Khao Yai National Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .421 Phanom Rung & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .421 Surin & Around . . . . . 422 Ubon Ratchathani . . 424 Around Ubon Ratchathani . . . . . . . . 426 Mukdahan & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . 427 That Phanom . . . . . . 428 Nakhon Phanom. . . . 429 River Road: Nakhon Phanom to Nong Khai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Nong Khai . . . . . . . . . 430 River Road: Nong Khai to Loei . . . . . . . . 432 Loei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433 Chiang Khan . . . . . . . 433 UNDERSTAND THAILAND . . . . . . . . . .435 Thailand Today . . . . . 435 History . . . . . . . . . . . . 435 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . 437 Environment . . . . . . . 439 SURVIVAL GUIDE . . . .439 Directory A–Z . . . . . . 439 Getting There & Away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 Getting Around . . . . . 445
Tha Ton
Pai
Nan
Pak Lai
R Muang Nan
Pak Xeng
Muang Vieng Kham
Dien Bien Phu
Son
gC
Thulakhom
Udon Thani
Phang Khon
Keut
Sakon Nakhon
Thanh Hoa
Tha Khaek
Truong
Son
Ha Tinh
Vinh
Yommalat
Halong City
Dong Hoi
Gulf of Tonkin
Halong Ninh Binh Bay
Haiphong
Lang Son
Cao Bang
Dien Chau
Ma
Cau Treo
So ng
HANOI
Vieng Kham (Thang Beng)
Kading
a O Ang Nam S Ngum Paksan Pak Kham
g
Nong Bualamphu
Xanakham
Nong Haet
Ba Thuoc Sam Tai
Hoa Binh
Thai Nguyen
Ha Giang Bao Yen
Sam Neua
Son La
Phu Bia (2819m) L A
Phonsavan
VIENTIANE
Phon Hong
Vang Vieng
Loei
Kaen Thao
an am N
Phrae
Utaradit
Sukhothai
Thoen
Mekong
Tha Wang Pha
Ou
So
Bac Ha
CHINA
ng Yen Bai H on g Da
Sapa
ng
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Fansipan (3143m)
r ive Luang Prabang
Pakbeng
Nam Ha NPA
Oudomxay (Muang Xai)
Boten
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Lai Chau
Hék¡u Lao Cai
on
Bhu Mi Phoi Dam
Chiang Rai
Muang Sing
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Pak Tha
Lamphun Lampang
Fang
Chiang Mai
Sop Moei
Mae Hong Son
MYANMAR (B U R M A)
Mae Sai
Luang Prabang Step back in time to old Asia (p298)
Nam Ha NPA Ecotourism adventures in the jungle (p322)
0
300m
600m
900m
1500m
2100m
2700m
3300m
ELEVATION
& Northern Thailand
› Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos
ek
Mae N
Nam
M
0 0
Hainan Island (China)
Halong Bay See nature at its outrageous best (p79)
Hanoi The historic heartbeat of Vietnam (p60)
200 km 120 miles
18ºN
Top Experiences ›
100ºE
Thung Song
Thammarat
T H A I L A N D Nakhon Si
Khon Kaen
Sihanoukville Beach capital of Cambodia (p249)
Chumphae
m
Similan Is
Ko Samui
Surat Thani
m
Takua Pa
Na
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ya
Surin Is
Phitsanulok
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8ºN
GO
LA
IPE
M Kamphaeng ae Phet
River
Bac Lieu
Phnom Penh The ‘pearl of Asia’ is back (p182)
SOUTH CHINA SEA
8ºN
Dong Ha Sepon V I Seno (Xeno) E Hoi An Hué Huong Mukdahan Savannakhet Muang Phin T N Culture and cuisine on tap Phichit Phu Kalasin Phetchabun (Muang Khanthabuli) A (p107) Sukhothai M Pi Amnat Mahasarakham Nong T H A I L A N D Songkhon ng Cycle through Thailand’s Charoen Bua M Chaiyaphum Danang 16ºN 16ºN Roi Et ae golden age (p404) on Ri Nakhon Yasothon Se D Hoi An ve Prathai Sawan Khong Sedon Ubon r Chai Chaturat Sanasombun Ma n Chi Ratchathani Badan Sangkhlaburi Pha Taem National Park e Nam Mu Bolaven Nakhon Sing Be awestruck by the Buriram Plateau Ratchasima Khao Si Saket Buri Lopburi Emerald Triangle (p426) Champasak (Khorat) Laem Dak To Surin Andaman Saraburi Lake Khao Yai Sukhuma Suphanburi Sanamxai Sea Hoai Nhon National Park Ayuthaya Muang Khong Tbeng Prachinburi Si Phan Kanchanaburi Nakhon Meanchey Don Pleiku Pathhom Si Kaew Aranya 14ºN 14ºN Temples of Prathet BANGKOK Qui Nhon Thkov Angkor Ban Lung Chachoengsao Stung Treng Sisophon Bangkok Samut Tonlé Chonburi Siem Reap Tonlé Sre Sakhon One night is never Battambang pok Sap enough (p368) Pailin Si Phan Don Buon Ma Rayong C A M B O D I A Thuot Kompong Lap up the sleepy Lao Chanthaburi Thom Ca lifestyle (p344) Kratie ra Pursat Ko da Trat Sen Monorom mo Kompong Samet Kompong Cham m Chhnang Dalat Ko Chang 12ºN 12ºN Khlong Yai Prachuap Phnom PHNOM Khiri Khan Udong Ko Kut PENH Phan Rang Krong Koh Tay Ninh & Thap Cham Krong Sre Prey Veng Koh Kong Gulf of Ambel Cu Chi Svay Takeo Thailand Mui Ne Rieng Ho Chi Minh City Sihanoukville Chau Doc (Kompong Som) (Saigon) Mondulkiri Vinh Temples of Angkor Kampot Chumphon The wild east (p242) Long Mytho The world’s biggest and the Ha Tien Ko Tao Can Tho region’s best (p208) Ben Tre Vung Tau Zadetkyi Khun Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) 10ºN 10ºN Phu Quoc Tra Vinh High-octane Ko Pha-Ngan Isthmus Mekong Island Soc Trang high life (p135) Delta of
Mae Sot
o Phra
Cha
M E RGU I A RC H
Mae
m Na
tral
Mekong
Cen
110ºE
H i gh l a n ds
108ºE
106ºE
104ºE
102ºE
98ºE
OUR STORY
A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS Nick Ray Coordinating author, Cambodia A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He lives in Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and his young children Julian and Belle. He has written for countless guidebooks on the Mekong region, including Lonely Planet’s Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos books, as well as Southeast Asia on a Shoestring. When not writing, he is often out exploring the remote parts of Cambodia as a location scout and manager for TV and film, including for the movies Tomb Raider and Two Brothers. Motorbikes are a passion and he has travelled through most of Indochina on two wheels. Read more about Nick at: lonelyplanet.com/members/nickjray
Greg Bloom Phnom Penh & South Coast Cambodia After five years in Manila, Greg crossed the pond to ‘small town’ Phnom Penh in 2008 and immediately took a liking to the city and its residents. He’s spent ample time researching its restaurants and bars ever since. When not writing about Southeast Asia, Greg can be found snouting around the former Soviet Union (he was editor of the Kyiv Post in another life) or running around on Asia’s ultimate frisbee fields. Read about his trips at www.mytripjournal.com/bloomblogs.
Read more about Greg at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/gbloom4 Austin Bush Northern Thailand Austin came to Thailand in 1998 on a language scholarship to Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life and a need for employment and spicy food led Austin to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have kept him there since. But escaping Bangkok, particularly for northern Thailand’s mountains, is one of his favourite things about writing for this guide. Austin is a freelance writer and photographer who often focuses on food. Samples of his work can be seen at www.austinbushphotography.com. Read more about Austin at: lonelyplanet.com/members/osten_th
Iain Stewart Vietnam Iain Stewart first visited, and was captivated by, all the countries in this guidebook as a traveller in 1991 armed with a trusty Lonely Planet or two. He’s now a Brighton-based writer, specialising in hot countries a long way from his English seaside abode. Iain has written over 30 guidebooks for six publishers on destinations as diverse as Ibiza and Indonesia. Read more about Iain at:
lonelyplanet.com/members/stewpot
Richard Waters Laos Richard lives with his family in the Cotswolds, and, since his early years driving a battered motor-home around Central America, has had invisible wings on his heels that insist on seeing what’s over the next hill. It’s usually a jungle. He’s worked and travelled in Laos for the last 10 years and it’s still his favourite country. When he’s not working for Lonely Planet he writes and photographs for British national newspapers and magazines. To read some of his blurb visit: www.richardwaters.co.uk. Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 3rd edition – Feb 2012 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74179 823 4 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
27
Itineraries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
HANOI MYANMAR (BURMA)
_ #
Luang Prabang
É
f # É
É
• #
Halong Bay CHINA
LAOS
Hainan
£ # M ek on VIENTIANE g • #
É
É
Hué • #
r ve Ri
THAILAND
Pakse
Ù #China Beach • # Hoi An
É
• #
– # CAMBODIA
É
# PHNOM • Cu Chi PENH Cao Dai • # Tunnels
É
Temple
• #
É
Mekong Delta
• # • #
• # Nha Trang
É
Gulf of Thailand
VIETNAM É
Temples of Siem Angkor Reap • # • #É Battambang • # Tonlé Sap
S O U T H C H I N A S E A
• # Mui Ne
Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)
Three to Five Weeks
Indochina Explorer Begin in the Vietnamese capital of Hanoi, replete with boulevards and lakes. Take a junk cruise among the spectacular karst islands of Halong Bay, then head south to Hué, the old imperial capital and cultural hub of central Vietnam. Take the coastal road to the historic trading point of Hoi An. Continue to party at the beach town of Nha Trang or the sand dunes of Mui Ne. Hit Ho Chi Minh City, the full-throttle face of new Vietnam, head on. Go underground at the Cu Chi Tunnels, then join the faithful at the Cao Dai Great Temple before plunging into the Mekong Delta. Experience the contrasts of Phnom Penh, then loop around the lake to the old town of Battambang. Continue to Siem Reap, home to the world’s most spectacular collection of temples at Angkor. Board a flight to Pakse, then head north to the Lao capital of Vientiane. Finish up in Luang Prabang and see monks at dawn and an old Asia that is increasingly hard to find.
28 MYANMAR (BURMA)
Pak Beng É Huay Xai • # É • # Luang • # Prabang LAOS
CHINA
• # Vang Vieng • #
Hainan
É
# Savannakhet Ri • ve r • # Pakse Wat Phu • # • #Bolaven Plateau • # Si Phan Don Temples of Siem Ratanakiri • # Angkor Reap • #• Province # CAMBODIA VIETNAM Tonlé • # Kratie Sap
THAILAND
É
É
_ BANGKOK #
É
Gulf of Thailand
SOUTH CHINA SEA
PHNOM• # PENH
Vinh Chau Doc • # Ho Chi Minh City #É Long • • # (Saigon) Phu Quoc • # Island # Can Tho • É
É
– #
É
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
É
É
É
M e VIENTIANE kon g• # Tha Khaek
Three to Six Weeks
Mekong Meander This trip trickles through an older Asia and includes some of the hottest spots in the region, as well as some of the less-visited backwaters. Leave behind the bustle of Bangkok for the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Laos, Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand converge. Step back in time into Laos and take a slow boat down the Mekong from Huay Xai, stopping the night in Pak Beng, to Luang Prabang. Soak up the magic before leaving the river for some relaxation in Vang Vieng. Continue to Vientiane and reunite with the mother river. It’s a sleepy place with some great cafes, restaurants and bars, which you won’t be encountering for a while. Fly south to Pakse or wind your way down the river through Tha Khaek and Savannakhet. Visit the imposing Khmer sanctuary of Wat Phu Champasak, in the shadow of Lingaparvata Mountain; explore the waterfalls and villages of the Bolaven Plateau; or enjoy the laidback islands of Si Phan Don. Cross into Cambodia and visit the mountains of Ratanakiri, home to elephants, hill tribes and pristine nature. Back on the river, call in at Kratie to see the rare Irrawaddy dolphin. Continue south to the revitalised Cambodian capital of Phnom Penh. Make a diversion by speedboat up the Tonlé Sap river to the boom town of Siem Reap, your base for the majestic Temples of Angkor. Back in Phnom Penh, take a fast boat down the mighty Mekong to Chau Doc, gateway to the Mekong Delta. Check out Can Tho, its commercial heart. Hotfoot it to Ho Chi Minh City for some fun; delve deeper into the delta with a homestay around Vinh Long, or make for the tropical retreat of Phu Quoc Island, a well-earned reward for following the mother river.
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
ANDERS BLOMQVIST / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
29
JOHN SONES / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©
» (above) Don Det (p347) on the Mekong River, Laos » (left) Streetside hairdresser, Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon; p135), Vietnam
HANOI # _
30
É
LAOS
É
Bai Tu Long Bay • # Halong Bay LanCat Ba Island Ha Bay CHINA Hainan
É
Bach Ma National Park
THAILAND
China Ù # Beach
÷ #
SOUTH CHINA SEA
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
Phong Nha-Ke Bang ÷ # National Park
VIETNAM
CAMBODIA MYANMAR (BURMA)
Yok Don National Park
÷ #
É
Dalat • # Cat Tien National # ÷ Park Mui Ne • #
• # Nha Trang
‚ Islands (200km) To Con Dao
Three to Five Weeks
Natural Highs Starting in Hanoi, Vietnam has plenty to offer adrenalin junkies and nature lovers. Explore Halong Bay for some sea kayaking among the karsts. Experienced climbers with their own gear can leave the water far below, as the limestone outcrops around Cat Ba Island offer some excellent ascents. Take to the waters of Lan Ha Bay by local boat to see the ‘new’ Halong Bay without the tourists. Boating, kayaking and Robinson Crusoe–style camping are possible here, and there are some beautiful hidden coves. Heading south to central Vietnam, stop at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a rising star in Vietnam that is home to spectacular caves, stunning jungle scenery and the chance for a boat trip into the karst system. Continuing down the coast is China Beach, a great place for budding surfers to test their board skills against some of the South China Sea’s biggest waves. Go under the waves at Nha Trang, the dive capital of Vietnam, before heading up towards the hills of the Central Highlands. Wind up, or down, in Dalat, a base for abseiling, cycling and rock climbing. Don’t forget two of Vietnam’s best-known national parks: the birding hotspot of Cat Tien National Park, which is home to the new Wild Gibbon Trek, and Yok Don National Park, home to elephants, both domesticated and wild. After all this inland adventure, it’s back to the coast to finish up. Try kitesurfing or windsurfing in Mui Ne or just relax over a cocktail if you feel you have earned your rest. Then continue south to the islands of Con Dao to experience some underwater action. A marine national park, Con Dao is home to rare manatee (sea cow) and a nesting site for the green sea turtle.
31 THAILAND LAOS • # Phimai
Phanom• # Rung
• #Wat Phu
É
# Kbal Spean •
Prasat Preah É Vihear • #
Koh Ker
É
_ BANGKOK #
• #
• #
É
É
National Park
Meuang Tam
É
÷ Khao Yai #
• # Temples of # Angkor Siem Reap •
É
Sambor Prei Kuk É
É
• #
CAMBODIA Gulf of Thailand
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
• #
É
É
Ayuthaya
• #
Kompong Cham VIETNAM
Two to Four Weeks
The Khmer Empire Following in the footsteps of the Khmer empire is a relatively straightforward proposition: much like the Romans, the ancient Khmers built a network of roads connecting the outposts of their empire. First, escape Bangkok for the seldom-visited region of northeast Thailand. Forget the Khmer theme for a day or two with a visit to the lush jungle and lovely waterfalls of Khao Yai National Park. Continue east to the ancient city of Phimai, one of the most important regional capitals during the time of Angkor. Head south to see the wonderfully restored temple of Phanom Rung, set atop an extinct volcano, and the nearby temple of Meuang Tam. Dip your toe into Cambodia by crossing the border to visit the spectacular mountaintop temple of Prasat Preah Vihear (Khao Praa Wihaan in Thai). Take in the dramatic views as you’ll be down below on the plains of Cambodia in a couple more weeks. If politics means the border is closed, you may have to attempt this from the other side at the end of the trip. Enter Laos and crisscross the Mekong to visit the Khmer sanctuary of Wat Phu Champasak, one of the oldest sacred sites in the region. Cross into Cambodia and call in at Kompong Cham before swinging northwest again to the pre-Angkorian capital of Sambor Prei Kuk, the first great temple city in the region. The climax of the pilgrimage is approaching: the incredible temples of Angkor. See the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, the world’s largest religious building; the Bayon, one of the world’s weirdest temples with its enigmatic faces; and the jungle-clad Ta Prohm. Venture further to encounter the usurper capital of Koh Ker, and the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean before taking a well-earned massage in Siem Reap.
32 Sapa
CHINA
Bac Ha
# É •
É
• #
÷ #
• #
É • #
• # • #
Gibbon Experience
Nong Khiaw
É
• #
É
Mai Chau
Vieng Xai
• #
Luang Prabang
LAOS
É
É
Pai
É
• #
• #
Chiang Rai
É
_ HANOI #
• #
É
Huay Xai
Tha Ton
Luang Nam Tha
É
• #
VIETNAM
• #
É
PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S
Bokeo Nature Reserve
• #
Dien Bien Phu
Muang Sing
É
MYANMAR (BURMA)
• #
THAILAND
Chiang Mai
Four to Six Weeks
Minority Report This route covers the mountainous regions of the Mekong where hill tribes have long made a home. Start in Chiang Mai, cultural capital of northern Thailand, and make sure you visit the Tribal Museum. Take the winding road to Pai, a mountain retreat that proves the hippy trail is alive and well. Then head on to Tha Ton, the entry point for rafting trips down to Chiang Rai, itself a good base for responsible trekking. Cross into Laos at Huay Xai and check out the Gibbon Experience at Bokeo Nature Reserve before heading for Luang Nam Tha. Spend a day or two trekking with the awardwinning Nam Ha Eco Trek Service, before continuing to Muang Sing, the hub for one of the most diverse minority regions in all Laos. Head south to Luang Prabang, a beautiful World Heritage Site on the banks of the Mekong to soak up the culture, before boomeranging north once more to Nong Khiaw. From here an adventurous overland trail runs east to Vietnam via Vieng Xai and the Pathet Lao Caves, a sort of Cu Chi Tunnels cast in stone. Once over the border in Mai Chau, try the northwest loop through Dien Bien Phu to experience incredible scenery and some of the country’s most dramatic mountain passes. Sapa, an old French hill station, is the gateway to the minority communities of this region. Consider a side trip to Bac Ha, home to the colourful Flower Hmong folk and great walking country. Head south to Hanoi, happy in the knowledge that all your ethnic souvenirs were bought direct from the minority people and not in the designer boutiques of the Old Quarter.
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