Vietnam - Lonely Planet

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VIETNAM. If there is one country in Southeast Asia that everyone has heard about long before they discover the region, it's Vietnam. Of course, such infamy ...
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Vietnam If there is one country in Southeast Asia that everyone has heard about long before they discover the region, it’s Vietnam. Of course, such infamy wasn’t always for the right reasons, but that’s history. This is the new Vietnam and it’s one of the most intoxicating destinations on earth. It is a kaleidoscope of vivid colours and subtle shades, of exotic sights and curious sounds, of compelling history and contrasting culture. Nature has blessed Vietnam with a bountiful harvest. From the soaring mountains of the far north to the carpet of emerald-green rice paddies in the deep south of the Mekong Delta and defined by its curvaceous coastline, Vietnam is stunning. Inland, peasant women in conical hats still tend to their fields, children ride buffalo and minority people scratch out a living from impossible gradients. If Vietnam has a soundtrack, it has to be the buzz of a million motorbikes, the cries of street hawkers plying their wares and the tinkle of pagodas drawing the faithful to prayer. Here, the modern and medieval collide. For culinary crusaders, Vietnam is a treasure trove of more than 500 different dishes. It’s a wonderful world of pungent herbs and secret spices. ‘Nam to a generation, the sorrow of war weighs heavily on the consciousness of all who can remember it and the Vietnamese side of the story is told at poignant sites across the country. Fiercely protective of their independence and sovereignty, the Vietnamese are graciously welcoming of foreigners who come as guests not conquerors.

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The Vietnamese have a vitality as tangible as the traffic on the street and the country is in top gear. Try and catch it before it reinvents itself as just another Malaysia or Singapore. For now, it remains one of the most enriching, enlivening and enticing countries on earth. FAST FACTS „ Area 329,566 sq km „ Capital Hanoi „ Country Code

%84

„ Population 86 million „ Money US$1 =17,770d (dong) „ Seasons South – hot and wet April to

September, hot and dry October to March. North – hot and dry April to September, cool and wet October to March. Central coast– typhoon season July to November. „ Phrases xin chào (hello), tam biêt (goodbye),

cam ơn (thank you)

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VIETNAM INDEX „ Bowl of pho (noodle soup) US$1-2 „ 1L bottle of water US$0.50 „ Big BGI beer US$1 „ Souvenir T-shirt US$2.50 „ Hotel room with air-con US$10-30

HIGHLIGHTS

Hanoi (p358) This grand old dame of Asia is a seductive blend of Parisian grace and Asian pace, pulsating with life, bubbling with commerce and buzzing with motorbikes. „ Halong Bay ( p376 ) Limestone peaks tower above the shimmering sea at this natural wonder – a karst system with a difference. „ Hoi An (p395) Charming despite the tourists, this maze of cobbled lanes and historical buildings offers a magical trip back in time. „ Mui Ne (p405) Lie back on the pristine beach, clamber the immense dunes that cloak the area or leave the sands behind and take to the waves with a spot of kitesurfing. „ Mekong Delta (p427) Enter a world of water in this rich land carpeted in dazzling greens, a place of slow boating, markets floating and fresh fish. „

ITINERARIES

(p378) and Lan Ha Bay (p378). In the south, a popular option is to explore the Mekong Delta highlights like Vinh Long (p429) and Cantho (p429) before winding up on the beautiful beaches of Phu Quoc (p433).

CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO When it comes to weather, it’s a tough call as Vietnam’s climate is so diverse. Think frosts and occasional snow in the mountains of the north, and temperatures soaring to 40°C in the south during the dry season. Vietnam’s weather is dictated by two monsoons, meaning double trouble on the rain front. The winter monsoon comes from the northeast between October and March, bringing damp, cool winters to all areas north of Nha Trang, and dry and warm temperatures to the south. From April or May to October, the summer monsoon brings hot, humid weather to the whole country except for those areas sheltered by mountains. For the best balance, we’d vote for the months of April, May or October. For those sticking to the south, November to February is dry and cooler. From July to November, violent typhoons hit central and northern Vietnam, which can dampen the spirits of even the most enthusiastic traveller. Domestic tourists are a major force now and they tend to travel in numbers during July and August. Prices escalate over the peak-season Christmas and New Year period. May, June and September are usually the quietest months. Some travellers like to time a visit with Tet (Vietnamese New Year), which is the biggest festival in the calendar in late January or early February. It’s a nice idea in principle, but not in practice, as the whole country is on the move and prices rise dramatically. Transport is rammed in the run-up and aftermath, and many shops and businesses close for a week.

HISTORY Vietnam has a history as rich and evocative as anywhere on earth. Sure, the war in Vietnam captured the attention of the West, but centuries before that the Vietnamese were scrapping with the Chinese, the Khmers, the Chams and the Mongols. Vietnamese civilisation is as sophisticated as that of its mighty northern neighbour China, from where it drew many of its influences under a 1000-year occupation. Later came the French and the humbling period of colonialism from which Vietnam was

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Itineraries in Vietnam tend to be dictated by its long, narrow shape, with most travellers heading north to south or vice-versa. A classic route would include Hanoi (p358) and Halong Bay (p376) in the north, Hué (p387) and Hoi An (p395) in central Vietnam, a coastal stop in Nha Trang (p400) or Mui Ne (p405) and then a finale in Ho Chi Minh City (p412) with a side trip to the Cu Chi Tunnels (p426). A longer variant might include a diversion to the mountain country, such as stately Sapa (p384) or quirky Dalat (p407). Some visitors may only have time to concentrate on one area of the country. It is possible to do an adventurous circuit of the north by 4WD, meeting the minority communities around Mai Chau (p382) and Bac Ha (p386), as well as visiting up-and-coming adrenalin destinations such as Cat Ba Island

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