Where cosmeceutical and nutricosmetics are going

Nutra/Cosmeceuticals

Where cosmeceutical and nutricosmetics are going Pierfrancesco Morganti 1, Gianluca Morganti 2 1. Professor of Applied Cosmetic Dermatology, II Università di Napoli; Visiting Professor at China Medical University Shenyang; Head of R&D, Centre of Nanoscience, Mavi Sud; I.S.C.D. President and Secretary General 2. Mavi Sud – V.le dell’Industria, 1 – 04011 Aprilia (LT), Italy srl published by Via Mario Donati, 6 20146 Milano - Italy Tel. +39 02 83241119 Fax +39 02 8376457 www.b5srl.com

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Innovation and sustainability will be the future challenges for all the companies in the sector of Beauty and Wellbeing. Innovation has to combine the deep knowledge on the skin cell’s machinery with the selection of active ingredients (1-3) (Figure 1). According with the NICE-effectiveness concept, Beauty and Wellness is the result of a balance among the Nervous, Immune, Cutaneous and Endocrine Systems which, working all together, activate the skin homeostasis (4-8). The skin wellbeing is, therefore, the result of “an improvement of the balance of the whole body rather than a local improvement of skin condition” (9). Such approach requires not only a combined use of cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics both from outside and inside, but also the incorporation of food ingredients into cosmetic products and cosmetic active ingredients in food products (10,11) (Figure 2). However, sustainability and the management of innovation have to achieve the ATKearney triple bottom line of economic success, social wellbeing and environmental protection (12) (FigJanuary/April 2011

ure 3). Thus the use of natural resources having a positive environmental impact obtainable for

Pierfrancesco Morganti

example by polysaccharide compounds, as chitin nanofibrils (CN) used for many purposes (13-15) (Figure 4). CN is a crystalline, pure and natural sugar-like nanocompound isolated by a patented technology from chitin, produced from shellfish waste (16,17). Discards of fisheries exceed, in fact, 20 million tons per annum, representing about 25% of the total annual production (18). For all these reasons, the industrial utilization of chitin as raw material for cosmetic use should be implemented because of its economical, environmental and social sustainability. On the contrary when chitin remains in the environment, the land becomes colonized by pathogens and spoilage organisms causing public health concern, while the sea rapidly lead to eutrophication, extending a high oxygen demand (19,20). Looking ahead, the success of environmental friendly innovation relies on the possibility to formulate mind-body skin care which, containing biological and biodegradable ingredients as CN

Figure 2 – The overlap among environment, lifestyle, nutraceuticals, beauty foods, cosmeceuticals, cosmetics and medical devices.

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Figure 3 – A.T. Kearney’s house of innovation.

and its complexes, are capable to improve the skin-body connections and meet the sustainability challenge. It is interesting to underline how, by the use of this CN crystalline polyglucoside and its complexes incorporated into specialized formulated nano-emulsions acting by a NICE approach, it was possible to deliver anti-aging ingredients through the skin obtaining a more efficient effective and long lasting activity (21,22) These news cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics, definable as neurocosmetics for their globalbody activity will influence the quality of life for their capacity to modulate the skin homeostasis and the human relationships. Moreover, the use for their formulas of safe and healthful biological ingredients, capable to be perpetually recycled, yields benefits to both humans and the world. The current state of NICE approach and nanoparticle technology is definitely in its infancy. Nanotechnology is in fact, the design, characterization and application of structures, devices and systems by controlling shape and size at the nanometre scale, where 1 nanometre is a billionth of a metre. Just to understand this dimension, the diameter average thickness of a human hair is of the order of 100,000 nm while a bacterium is about 1000 nm and CN is about 240 nm (23) (Figure 5). Unlike traditional methods that rely on random activity of the ingredients, the innovative way of manufacturing, combining nanotechnology with the NICE approach of formulating and controlling the cosmetic products involves specific emulsion technology that positions active compounds, selected and complexed in specific way, and at specific time, to obtain a global and harmonic activity (21-24). In conclusion cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics by the NICE approach, are representative of a new category of product formulations


that realize a harmonic musical composition capable to play in unison with the symphonic organization of cells, human producing emotions, beauty and wellness. The skin life is based, in fact, on a complex network of events in which different connections among the cells turnover, overlap and arrange each other defining its own entire structure to obtain more effective cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics by the NICE approach and in agreement with both

1. Morganti P. “The cosmetic activity at cell level” Eurocosmetics 2010 18 (112), 246 2. Morganti P., Palombo M., Palombo P., Fabrizi G., Cardillo A., Carezzi F., Morganti G., Ruocco E., Dzierzgowski S. “Cosmetic Science in Skin Aging: Achieving the Efficacy by the Chitin Nano-Structured Chrystallites” SOFW Journal 2010, 136 (3), 14-24 3. Morganti P, Yuan-Hong Li, Hong-Duo Chen “NICE melody for innovative mind-body skin care”. Cosmetic Science Technology 2011, in press 4. Hosoi J., Murphy GF., Egan C.L., Lerner E.A., Grabbe S., Asahina A., Granstein R.D. “Regulation of Langerhans function by nerves containing calciotomin gene-related peptide” Nature 1993, 363, 159-63 5. Torii H., Yan Z., Hosoi J., Granstein R.D. “Expression of neurotrophic factors and neuropeptides receptors by Langerhans cells and Langerhans cell-like line XS52: further support for a functional relationship between Langerhans cells and epidermal nerves” J. Invest. Dermatol. 1997, 109, 588-99 6. Ozawa T. “Prologue for the 21st century” in: Skin: Interface of a Living System, Tagami H., Parish J.A., Ozawa T. Eds; Elsevier: Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 1998, pp.177-90 7. Querleux B., Jourdain R., Dauchot K., Burnod Y., Bittoun J., Bastien P. de Lacharriere O. “Sensitive skin: specific brain activation revealed by the functional MRI” 20th World Congress of Dermatology, Paris, France, Book of

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the traditional Chinese Medicine and the Indian Ayurvedic Medicine. It will be necessary to formulate these new products by a dynamic approach, understanding in advance all the interactions should occur among the skin, the body and the cosmetic diet supplement designed. This is the future challenge for all the scientists involved in the field of cosmetics and functional food. REFERENCES

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Abstract, 1S42 (July 1-5 2002) 8. Morganti P., Morganti G., Fabrizi F., Cardillo A. “A news sun to rejuvenate the skin” J. Appl. Cosmetol. 2008, 26, 159-68 9. Wiechers J.W. “Mind over matter: cosmetic claim substantiation Issues facing the future” in: Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry, 3rd Edn, Schueller R., Romanowski P. Eds; Allured Books: Carol Stream, IL, 2009, pp.469-78 10. Morganti P., Yuan-Hong Li, Hong-Duo Chen “Skin life and cell management: the NICE approach” Personal Care 2011, in press 11. Dokos L. “NA and EU Nutricosmetics Ingredients Markets: Market Challenges and Business Growth opportunities” Proceedings In-Cosmetics, Paris, April 13-15, 2010 12. Gerhardt C., Hubert J. Innovation, Sustainability and Complexity; ATKearney Inc; Chicago, IL, 2009 13. Morganti P., Morganti G. “Chitin nanofibrils for advanced cosmeceuticals” Clinics in Dermatology 2008, 26, 334-40 14. Morganti P. “Chitin-nanofibrils in skin treatment” J. Appl.

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Cosmetol. 2009, 27, 251-70 15. Morganti P. “Chitin Nanofibrils and their derivatives as cosmeceuticals” in: Chitin, Chitosan, Oligosaccharides and their Derivatives, Se-Kwon Kim Ed; CRC Press: New York, 2011, pp. 531-42 16. Kurith K. “Chitin and chitosan: functional biopolymers from marine crustaceans” Mar. Biotechnol. 2006, 8, 20326 17. Brück W.M., Slatter J.W. Carney B.F. “Chitin and chitosan from marine organisms”in: Chitin, Chitosan, Oligosaccharides and their Derivatives, Se-Kwon Kim Ed; CRC Press: New York, 2011, pp. 11-23 18. FAOstat Statistical Databases, Fisheries Data; UN FAO: Rome, Italy, 2001 – http://faostat.fao.org/ 19. Islam M., Khan S., Tanaka M. “Waste loading in shrimp and fish processing effluents: potential source of hazard to the coastal and nearshore environments” Mar. Pollut. Bull. 2004 49, 103-10 20. Beaney P., Lizardi-Mendoza J., Healy M. “Comparison of

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chitins produced by chemical and bioprocessing methods” J. Chem. Technol. Biotechnol. 2005, 80, 145-50 21. Morganti P., Del Ciotto P., Fabien-Soulé V. (2011) “Application of chitin nanofibrils and collagen of marine origin as bioactive ingredients” in: Marine Cosmeceuticals: Latest Trends and Prospects, Se-Kwon Kim Ed.; CRC Press, New York, 2011, in press 22. Morganti P., Fabrizi G., Palombo P., Palombo M., Guarneri F., Cardillo A., G. Morganti G. “New chitin complexes and their anti-aging activity from inside out” Journal of Nutrition, Health and Aging 2011, in press 23. Morganti P. “Use and potential of nanotechnology in cosmetic dermatology” Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 2010, 3, 5-13 24. Morganti P., Fabrizi G., del Ciotto P., Palombo M., Palombo P., Cardillo A., Morganti G. “The boosting activity of chitin nanofibrils” Eurocosmetics 2011, in press
